It happens to the best of riders in the best of saddles. Painful saddle sores. I didn’t realize this myself until I personally tried over 40 saddles, panty hose, bike hose, no hose (ouch), Vaseline and Bodyglide to keep me from chaffing during my rides. After little or no success with any of these, I was forced to invent Saddle Bums just for my own protection. Once National Cutting Champion Bobby Nelson said to me, “Saddle Bums Saved My A—“! I knew that what I created was really working.

With many of today’s protective riding wear, the various padding materials used include felt boot liner, sheepskin, and chamois. These materials aren’t really effective in keeping your seat dry and cushy. Here’s how to tell–next time you get your feet wet on a hike and get blisters you’ll know first hand (or foot) why these things don’t work. Unlike those fabrics, the Saddle Bums padding cushions where it feels good, but more importantly it absorbs moisture (sweat) and wicks it to the outside of the garment where it can evaporate and stop irritating your more delicate parts shall we say. Cushy is nice, but dry is what really works!

No two fannies are alike.
Feet and fannies alike need to be dry with no pressure points. Unlike boots, stitching and padding in tights can’t be the same for guys and gals. Every male that ever rode a horse knows the need for an athletic supporter. Most rough stock rodeo cowboys ride in our “Original Cowboy Underwear” for just this reason. After all, the beating they get in 5 or 6 seconds isn’t pretty. After 8 seconds they hear buzzers and seem to be euphoric. Go figure.

If you must wear jeans, try stretch Wranglers (they have the smallest inseam) with Saddle Bums Riding Shorts or Western Workout Tights (the ankle version that also pads the inner knee) under them. These “are a must” claims Leon, of Leon Harrel’s Old West Adventure in Kerrville, TX where cutting horse wisdom, among other things, is imparted to his guests. Leon knows that if you are comfortable, you can keep a good seat and everything works a bunch better that way.

Do it right and while you’re at it don’t neglect the poor ol’ knees. The knee padding in Saddle Bums can make quite a difference, unless of course you’re into raspberries. Choose the best comfort wear for your ride be it Western, English, Endurance Racing, Trail Riding, a dude ranch vacation, or the elk hunt of a lifetime. You’ll ride better, look better, have more fun, ride safer, and truly enjoy your ride and your horse.

To fit a western saddle you must first measure your horse. You can’t call a tack shop and tell them you need a regular or wide tree and expect it to fit just like that. Each saddle manufacturer has its own way of measuring saddles and they all are different. Even in the manufacturers themselves as most saddles are made by hand not by machines. This especially changes in a used saddle because they stretch with use.

To Measure your horse you need a flex-i-curve (which can be found at an office supply store in the drafting tools) or a piece of heavy coated 1/2″ electrical wire, about 2′ long. You’ll also need a piece of cardboard or a piece of heavy stock paper. With this device you can make a form of your horses back with little expense. This will give a knowledgeable tack shop owner or employee a pretty good idea how your horse is shaped and help you in finding the right fit.

Start by finding your horses shoulder blade (easier said then done on some of our chubbier horses!!) When you find it take your wire and bend it slightly so it will fit over your horses back. 2 fingers behind the shoulder blade. Which by the way is where you should be placing your saddle to keep it from restricting your horses movement and making him uncomfortable. Be sure the wire is sitting flat on both sides of your horse before you remove it. Then carefully trace the inside of the form on your paper or cardboard. Take this form with you when you travel or send a copy of it to your tack shop advertising saddles and ask them if they have anything that may fit your horse. By using this form you can place it up inside a saddle and tell how its going to fit your horses back. No it isn’t a sure thing. But it will tell you immediately if something won’t fit though to save you extra miles or shipping costs.

When you get the saddle have your horse stand on level ground. For fitting western saddles you should be using the saddle pad that you will be using with the saddle. I recommend thick saddle pads for western saddles to protect the back. Place the saddle on the pad and slide it until it finds its natural resting spot behind the shoulder blade then at this point pull the saddle pad up into the gullet and girth up the saddle. Now is the saddle level on the horses back? The way to tell this is look at the skirt of the saddle it should be straight from front to back and not be slanting up or down , and the seat should have a level spot in it where you would be sitting. Now see if you can slide your hand under the saddle on both sides of the withers. This is very important you don’t want it pinching your horse. You also should be able to stick a couple fingers under the horn of the saddle comfortably. After this check to see how far back the saddle goes towards your horses hip bone. You should have enough space between his hip and the end of the saddle so it doesn’t rub. If you have a Morgan or Arab this is pretty common. More often than not a horse of this type would need a round or pretty short skirted saddle.

If all these things check out then mount up and ride in the saddle at a walk for 5 minutes or so then dismount and check the fit again. I’ve found that the thick western pads although are great for protection sometimes hide a fitting problem at first because you need weight in the saddle to “squish” them down!! If still okay then if the store allows it take the saddle out for a good test ride of walk , trot and canter for at least 15 minutes.. At this point be aware of your horses behavior and attitude. Is he exhibiting any bad behavior like pinning his ears, bucking or biting his sides? (any thing that he hasn’t done before?) If so than the saddle maybe bothering him somewhere. Also be aware of how you fit into the saddle too. You should feel comfortable of course with enough room to at least put your hand on your thigh between your leg and the pommel. Your legs should hang down comfortably neither to far forward or back without your feet in the stirrups. When you pick up the stirrups notice if they are forcing you to ride in an unnatural position.

If the saddle is used take off and ride in it for a good long time so that you can get some sweat marks on the saddle pad. They should be fairly even, and your horses back shouldn’t have any dry spots around his shoulders. Also watch for rubbing in the back skirt on his back. Of course if the saddle is new, most shops aren’t going to want you to ride in it for this long because you’ll also get sweat marks on the new saddle. So Its really important to check all the other points carefully.

If after checking you find that the saddle is too tight around his withers than your going to need a saddle with more gullet space. Take a measurement of the space between the gullet on the saddle. Most full quarter horse or Arab saddles measure 7″, a quarter horse 6 1/2 and a semi 6. But this will vary, If the saddle is setting down on our horses withers you have to look and say either that the saddle is too wide or it could be your horses withers are pretty high and you just will need to look for a saddle with a higher pommel. A cutting or an a A-fork. In any case, really visually check why your saddle doesn’t fit and write it down with as many measurements as you can, this will help tons later.

After you find that saddle before you go on a long trail ride, or anything else, condition it really well over and under! Lexol conditioner is great and it comes in a spray bottle so you can get under the skirt and condition the stirrup leathers. You’ll want to condition every speck of leather 2 or 3 times before you ride in it. This will cut down on sweat stains later. After you ride just rub your saddle down with a soft rag that has some kind of your favorite conditioner on it. I find by doing this I don’t have to really “clean” my saddle only once a year or so. The less time you spend putting water on your saddle the better of you’ll be.

I certainly hope I have given you a few ideas on how to go about looking for your saddle. Please feel free to write anytime if you have questions.

Happy Trails, Donna Hastings
Silver and Leather Tack

About the Author:

Donna Mae Hastings has been an avid horse enthusiast for 30 years and has owned Silver and Leather Tack located in Chester, Vermont since 1992. She has studied saddle fitting under the guidance of Gary Severson, also known as the “Saddle Doctor”.

Web Site: http://www.silver-and-leather.com

Article and pictures courtesy of: Silver and Leather Tack

I have put this information together to aid and assist you in searching for a saddle and to help you to take care of it once you get it. I hope this will help you in a most often frustrating job!! These ideas will not guarantee your saddle will fit but I hope it will help you in getting alot closer to it!!

To start with you must measure your horse, you can’t call a tack shop and tell them you need a regular or wide tree and expect it to fit just like that. Each saddle manufacturer has its own way of measuring saddles. Even in the manufacturers them selves there are differences because saddles are made by hand not machines. (This especially changes in a used saddle because they stretch with use. Many times regular tree saddles will end up being wide after several years of use.)

To measure your horse you will need

1. A”flex-i-curve” (which can be found in most office supply stores in the drafting tools) or a heavy coated piece of electrical wire about 2′ long

2. A piece of cardboard or heavy stock paper

3. A black magic marker.

With this you’ll be able to make a tracing of your horses back which will give a tack shop owner, or yourself an idea of what your horses back looks like.

Start by finding your horses shoulder blade (easier said than done on some of our chubbier horses.) If you have a problem, lift your horses front leg up and down and with this movement you should see its shoulder blade movement. The wire should go two fingers behind this area, which is also where you should be placing your saddle. Take the wire and bend it slightly so that It will fit over your horses back two fingers behind the shoulder. Be sure the wire is sitting flat on both sides of the back before you remove it. Take the wire off and carefully place it on the cardboard. Trace the inside of this form and make a note which side was which as some horses are thicker on one side than the other. Particularly horses who pace the fence line. Take this form with you when you travel or send a copy of it to tack shops that are advertising saddles and ask them if they have anything that may fit your horses. By using this form you can place it up inside a saddle and come close to telling how the saddle is going to fit your horses back. When you go to a tack shop you’ll know for sure which saddles definitely won’t fit and which ones that may. (The form should fit the saddle like the saddle fits your horse with just enough clearance for its withers. If the form goes all the way up inside the saddle to touch the gullet, or if when placed in the saddle you can fit your whole hand in between the top of the form and the gullet then try another saddle)

When you get the saddle home have your horse stand on level ground with no saddle pad on, place the saddle on its back and slide it until it finds its natural resting spot behind the shoulder blade. With the saddle in this position you need to check for several things.

1. Is the saddle level on the horses back? The panels, or the bottom of the saddle, should be level with the ground, and the seat , where you would be sitting should be level.

2.There should be an angle from the pommel, the front of the saddle to the cantle, the back of the saddle with the cantle being higher. This angle will be different depending on what type of saddle it is.

3.You then need to place one hand on top of the saddle and press down slightly, lift up the flaps, where your stirrups hang down, and look underneath to be sure the saddle is resting on the horses back completely and that there are no gaps, or bridging.

4.Slide your hand into the front of the saddle on both sides of the withers. Can you slide your hand easily on both sides with equal pressure? You don’t want the saddle to be pinching your horse here.

5.Now check how much space you have between the pommel and your horses withers. We used to always say you need 3 fingers of space there but I’m afraid this varies with saddles too, so the easiest way is this. If all the other places you checked on the saddle are fine and you have clearance under the pommel to fit in a least a finger or two then more then likely the saddle will be fine especially if the saddle is used if the saddle is brand new expect it to drop down from this position by a least the width of a finger.

6.Now stand behind the horse and be sure you can see light through the gullet.

After all these things have checked out put a thin saddle pad on your horse and if your tack shop allows it girth up the saddle. When you sit in the saddle you should have between 3 and 4 fingers of space behind your buttocks and your leg when loose should fall into a natural position. Now ride in the saddle and see how you like it. While your checking it out for yourself be looking at any signs from your horse that he isn’t happy. Is he pinning his ears, kicking out or showing any other behavior that he hasn’t shown before? If so it may be pinching him somewhere. If the saddle is used take if out for a good ride and when you get back to the barn look at the back of your saddle pad, are the dirt marks fairly even, or are there big spots of white or heavier dark spots? If so the saddle may not be fitting him properly.

When considering a new saddle you have many things to consider. If you buy a wool flocked saddle you should have it restuffed at least once a year if you ride lightly, if you ride a lot that you may need to have it restuffed as much as every 3 months. If you are buying a used wool flocked saddle and it will be used on only one horse than you should have if restuffed for that horse for his maximum comfort. Your tack shop should be able to give you the name of a saddler who could do this work for you. This is not expensive and It will help you in not having a sore backed horse.

If you get a foam stuffed saddle new then it will mold to the shaped of your horses back and not change shape, you will not have to have it restuffed . If the saddle is used then really check to be sure you have no gaps or bridging anywhere because it is shaped to the back of the last horse that wore if. Most of the time this isn’t a big problem but if is something to be aware of.

Also when buying a used saddle check the billets for wear and the tree for cracks. To check the tree hold the pommel in one hand and the cantle in the other. Place your knee in the center of the seat and push. If the tree is broken or cracked then the saddle will over bend and there may be some sort of cracking sound. Check if again by putting the saddle between your knees and squeezing with both hands on both sides of the pommel this should be tight unless it has a leather tree. I’m assuming that all tack shops check there used saddles before they sell them so this is just something to check if you are buying a saddle privately or at an auction. Be aware that some english spring tree saddles or leather tree saddles bend more than others if you are in doubt ask to have the saddle checked buy a saddler.

After you buy your saddle keep if clean buy wiping if off every time you ride in it with a soft rag. Clean if with glycerin soap (or your favorite cleaner there are many) at least once a week and use a good conditioner as well. We don’t recommend using oils as people have a tendency to over use them. Remember when cleaning leather, less is better. If you have dry leather it is better to use 20 thin coats (letting them dry in between coats thoroughly) than 1 thick coat. If may take longer but your leather will last much longer and won’t rot and mildew as fast.

I certainly hope I have given you a few ideas on how to go about looking for and caring for a saddle.

Something else to think about is if you don’t ride your horse all winter then don’t expect your saddle to fit the same in the spring as it does when your horse is fit. Also check for wear especially the billets and your girth and leathers . Look for loose stitches and tears. Also as your saddle gets older don’t assume that it will always fit your horse (seeing as though your horse is getting older too.) Periodically check the fit of the saddle . If you see a problem don’t worry, More than likely it can be fixed with restuffing. I have a great saddler who adjusts the trees of saddles and rebuilds them if necessary, so ifs always possible to have than saddle refit even if you buy a new horse. If not than start that search again!!

If I can be of any help to you feel free to call or e-mail me with any questions you have and I would be more than happy to give you the name of the saddler who I send all my customers to.

Happy Trails!

phone or fax 802-875-4527

email horsestr@sover.net ….ICQ pager

About the Author:
Donna Mae Hastings has been an avid horse enthusiast for 30 years and has owned Silver and Leather Tack located in Chester, Vermont since 1992. She has studied saddle fitting under the guidance of Gary Severson, also known as the “Saddle Doctor”.

Web Site: http://www.silver-and-leather.com

Article and pictures courtesy of: Silver and Leather Tack

All horse owners have had at least one – a ñgirthy horseî, a horse that turns it÷s head and tries to bite when being girthed up. They÷ve been called ñpigs÷, bad mannered, and every other name under the sun. Most people put this behaviour down to attitude ¿ bad attitude ¿ but they÷ve actually got an excuse, and a very good one. Pain around the lower girth area is very real and affects at least 80% of the horse population to some degree. We usually only notice the ñpigsî.

ñGirthinessî can be caused by painful withers, which most commonly result from ill-fitting saddles, from girth galls and, most commonly, from abnormal sensitivity of the chest behind the elbow. The latter cause outnumbers the others at around 20 to 1.

The origin of this girth pain appears to be an upset of the joint or joints between the vertebrae of the highest part of the wither and of the ribs that attach to them. This in turn upsets the nerve that passes between the affected vertebrae and over the joint between the vertebra and rib. The resulting pain follows the course of the nerve down between the associated ribs, all the way under the shoulder blade down to the pectoral muscles near where the girth is placed at the bottom of the chest. The pectoral muscles become tender so the girth squashing them is uncomfortable. The trapezius muscles under the point of the saddle tree are tight and tender ¿ they are fed with nerves from the same vertebrae ¿ and pressure from the saddle is uncomfortable as a result. The real pain, though, usually comes from the ribs being pushed back up. The joints are further upset by this, causing the pain to be magnified. The horse effectively feels like it has a broken rib and reacts accordingly ¿ and tries to let you know it doesn÷t want that girth tightened! Luckily after a while the pain becomes duller and the horse can breathe again.

Symptoms of rib pain on fastening of the girth include:

Slight change in facial expression, often a partial closing or tightening of the eyes or a frown.

Grunting.

Lifting the head.

Inflating the chest to fix and splint the ribs. Also prevents the girth being applied very tightly.

Attempting to bite the handler. Often repeated at each stage of tightening the girth. This is the most common and most obvious symptom.

Once girthed up the symptoms include ¿

Grunting while being ridden, especially when going down hill.

Refusing to move forward freely for 10-20 minutes after being saddled.

Swishing the tail, laying ears back and shortened foreleg stride until warmed up.

In extreme cases bucking and/or pigrooting and /or lying down for a short spell after being girthed up.

Generally being unhappy and piggy through the ride.

Rushing jumps.

Hurrying after being turned for home.

Resisting leg aids.

Resistance to turning sharply.

Signs of rib pain ¿

The skin of the girth area of most horses is ticklish behind the elbow; however, gentle stroking should remove any reaction. If the skin remains jumpy when touched after gentle stroking then there is probably an active problem.

When tapping or prodding the skin behind the elbow, the muscles all jump, including the muscles of the leg above the elbow.

Tightness and tenderness of the muscles under the girth.

Tightness and tenderness of the muscles above the shoulder blade.

Causes ¿ this area is still under debate. It is highly likely that this rib problem starts at birth. Recent research into birth trauma in foals revealed a 5% incidence of broken ribs and a 20% incidence of rib cage trauma in newborn foals. The problem area corresponded with the highest part of the wither and overlaps with that of the rib pain described here.

How does this problem develop? ¿

Most of the time the rib pain is there but is low grade. Horses, I believe learn to live with it. When you÷re broken in you get a saddle and girth on and it’s a bit uncomfortable, but it is made clear that you÷re not allowed to complain, so you don÷t ¿ well not unless you÷ve got ñattitudeî and you have to let every one know about it. Humans must sometimes look dumb to a horse and so the horses with considerable discomfort or pain have to either put up with the problem or get more aggressive to get their message across. We also have those individuals that will complain about any minor discomfort. When a horse falls on its shoulder or trips badly with a saddle on or is girthed up roughly, the problem that started at birth can be made much worse, and as a result a good horse can quickly or gradually turn sour. Alternatively the problem may be associated with the horse favouring one foreleg, or leaning. This may produce a chronic postural twist of the ribcage that results in a low-grade discomfort becoming a major source of pain.

Treatment Options -

The most effective and long lasting treatment that I have seen is chiropractic adjustment of the joints between the affected vertebra and the vertebrae and rib. (Using true bony chiropractic and not massage ñchiropracticî). Results are usually immediate, and at times nothing short of spectacular. Acupuncture is very useful in settling down the affected joints and muscle knots and so the combination of these therapies give the ultimate result.

Massage of the girth area and wither area is helpful and will, where tolerated, at least give temporary relief. Some skilled massage therapists are able to produce long-term alleviation of the signs of girth pain.

Postural adjustment via rider balance and training under lunge can also reduce the twist of the ribcage and thus alleviate the problem.

TENS or Faradic machines may be used to break the pain cycle associated with the affected nerves. These often give considerable relief if used properly. The results, however, are removal of the obvious symptoms rather than the cause. Thus the overall benefit is less and the symptoms are more likely to return.

Using a broad cushioned girth that has 10-15cm of elastic at each end can increase you horse÷s comfort and reduce the chance that an underlying problem will be aggravated if the horse has a fall when being ridden.

Who can help your horse? To contact a veterinary chiropractor -

In the USA phone the American Veterinarians and Chiropractors Association (AVCA)

623 Main Street
Hillsdale, IL 61257
309-658-2920
fax – 309-658-2622
e-mail – AmVetChiro@aol.com

In Australia contact Dr Fiona Kates, DC on 03 99257314 or fax 03 94672794 at the RMIT University Animal Chiropractic Department or the Australian Veterinary Chiropractic Association on (02)6722 4305

Copyright © Ian Bidstrup 2000

About the author:

Dr. Ian Bidstrup is a veterinarian pursuing a full time practice of veterinary chiropractic and acupuncture. He has spent most of his life either riding or treating horses. He has a Graduate Diploma in Animal Chiropractic from the RMIT University, Melbourne, Australia, a certificate in animal chiropractic from the American Veterinarians and Chiropractors Association, and a certificate in animal acupuncture from the International Veterinary Acupuncture Society. He is currently undertaking a Master of Animal Chiropractic thesis on girth pain syndrome of equines.

Proper bit fit is necessary in every riding discipline. When a bit does not fit a horse’s mouth properly, bad habits or injuries may result. If the horse has any scars or open cuts or rubs on his lips or tongue, this means he has had bit abuse. Many times this happens when an unknowledgeable rider has used a bit that does not fit properly or comfortably in the horse’s mouth. If you suspect either injury in your horse’s mouth, and/or an ill-fitting bit, please read our checklist below.

Check # 1: The Lips
Most of our trainers have told us: for all horses, you know when a bit is adjusted correctly when there are 2 wrinkles in the corner of the horse’s mouth. It is sad when I realize this is the only information most trainers give to their students about bit fitting, since there is so much more to it. In addition, that little piece of information is only partially correct. Why, you ask? Lets see…

All horses have differently shaped lips. Some horses’ lips have thinner skin, which will wrinkle easier, and some have tougher skin which doesn’t wrinkle as easy! Some horses are more sensitive to the bit, and some are not. The shape of the lips plays a large role. Some horses have longer lips and some have shorter lips. So, what is our guideline here? We have three…

Use 1-2 wrinkles for horses that have shorter lips.
Use 3 wrinkles for horses that have longer lips.
Use your best judgement, experiment and see what works best.

Check # 2: The Bars
The bars are the space on the gums in the horse’s mouth between the front teeth and molars. This is the space where the bit rests on the horse’s gums. There are no teeth in this area. Sometimes the bars become injured or bruised by rough bit handling, or from harsh bits such as the ones with a corkscrew mouth piece. To check if your horse’s bars are injured or have been injured in the past, run your finger over them. They should feel flat and smooth. If they are rough, scarred or bruised, he has had injury to them.

Check # 3: The Tongue
The size of the tongue and size of the mouth varies slightly from horse to horse. Some horses have extra room for their tongue when their mouth is closed, some don’t. To check if your horse’s tongue is too large, lift his lips away while his mouth is closed. If you see that his tongue is sticking out between his teeth, using a smaller bit will help.

Check # 4: The Hard Palate
The hard palate is the area on the roof of the horse’s mouth. Some horses’ hard palates allow for extra space, and some don’t. For horses that do not have a lot of arch in their hard palate, do not use high-port bits. Using a high-port bit on such a horse is a very common cause of star-gazing.

Check # 5: The Dental Situation
Check to make sure your horse’s teeth are not causing a problem. His teeth should be checked and/or floated every 6 months by a veterinarian or dental technician. Sharp, pointed or decayed teeth can cause uncomforatable or painful chewing and bit fit.

Check # 6: The Right Bit
The first thing you should check on any bit you ever use is the bit’s condition. Look for sharp edges or worn spots. This would make it uncomfortable for a horse to carry the bit in his mouth. Make sure that no part of the bit has potential to pinch the horse’s mouth, tongue or lips.

Use a tape measure or string to measure from one corner of your horse’s mouth through the inside of his mouth to the other corner. The mouth piece on his bit should be 3/4 inch larger than the measurement you took of his mouth. This allows for just enough room, to avoid pinching of the bit in the corners of his mouth from a bit that is too small.

By looking at the horse’s bars and hard palate as described above, you’ll need to decide on the correct thickness for a bit. As a general rule, the mouth piece of the bit should never take up more than 1/2 the space between his hard palate and bars.

Okay, one last thing about bits…curb chains and ports. Hmmm, now there’s a fuzzy topic. Many people have different opinions about how to use curb chains and ports. My guidelines have always been: 1. Always make sure you can slide one finger in between the horse’s chin and the curb chain. 2. For ports, see the Check # 4 (above).

About the author:

Cheryl’s goal is to educate horse owners on how to develop a trusting and respectful partnership with their horses. The training methods she uses and teaches are ones that promote a horse’s confidence and willingness to please.

As the President of Equusite.com (The Ultimate Horse Resource), Cheryl teaches her methods of horsemanship online in a simple step-by-step fashion to ensure that horsemen and women of all ages and disciplines are able to understand and use her methods easily.

For more information, see Cheryl’ bio page or contact her:

Cheryl McNamee-Sutor
President, Equusite.com
cheryl@equusite.com
(630) 267-9397

There’s a lot of mythunderstandings out there about training equipment. Some people seem to believe that using a certain piece of equipment guarantees their horse will learn something. Or they’ll be able to learn it easier or faster. Other people flat out condemn particular pieces of equipment no matter when or how they’re used. They can’t see any way using the thing could be justified. Another bunch puts down riders who use certain kinds of equipment as ignorant, unskilled, or inhumane.

When it comes to training equipment, blanket statements about what is good or bad simply don’t work. Training equipment has to suit the horse where he is at and the handler where she or he is. The goal in choosing or using any kind of special training equipment should be the safety of the person first, the safety of the horse second, then the comfort of the horse and finally the comfort of the person. The horse has no choice in the comfort thing so his comfort should come before the handler’s but in safety, it’s the other way around.

Many times equipment that’s used to limit a horse’s capabilities like a tie down or martingale or overcheck is a good thing because it’s limiting the horse to the level of the person handling him. Let’s say you tell someone who can barely stay on to take the tie down off her horse because, according to you, it’s only a training crutch or it’s harming the horse to limit his head. Then that horse sticks his head up in the air and runs away. Do you want to be responsible for that wreck?

Until both the horse and rider get more training, that tie down is a positive thing. Once they both know more, it may become a negative factor in their overall progressive. But in and of itself, that tie down is neither good or bad. It all depends on how its used.

Leads with a chain end are another example. I could make a blanket statement that leadshanks with chains are bad for horses or that they’re a sign of poor horsemanship. Then I’d be responsible if someone with a really aggressive horse that can’t relax outside its stall reads my advice, takes their horse out without a chain under its chin or over its nose and gets hurt.

I could even get students here at Meredith Manor in trouble if I outright banned leads with chains on the end. We’ve got a teenage Quarter horse mare named Cody who’s one of the goldie oldie school horses we use for beginners. If they put a chain under her chin when they take her from the barn to the arena, she’ll just ho hum and go along with them wherever they want her to go. If they don’t, Cody gets her head down and drags them all over campus mowing the grass and picking out the best worm eggs she can find. To Cody, a chain under the chin is a sign of authority she respects. As long as it’s there, she doesn’t try to get away with anything and she’s a pussycat. But she’s not above taking advantage of a situation when circumstances work in her favor.

I prefer that students here at Meredith Manor just use simple cotton lead ropes. But they arrive on campus with all sorts of stuff and we’re not going to make them go to the expense of buying something else. It’s not so important what they bring as how they use it.

Another big mythunderstanding about training equipment happens when people confuse cause and effect. A trainer sets up a situation to help the horse understand a new concept or pressure. That trainer might use a particular piece of training equipment to help the horse’s understanding develop. But people see the trainer using the equipment. They get to associating the training effect with that equipment and before long, they’re beginning to think that it was the equipment that caused the training instead of the trainer.

We have a round pen in here at Meredith Manor because everybody’s into round pens these days and they don’t think you can be a real trainer unless you’re using one. But the truth is that the lessons we teach horses in our round pen can just as easily be taught in a square pen or a rectangular one. The pen by itself doesn’t teach them anything. The trainer’s interaction with the horse is what increases his understanding. It is very important that the horse likes being around you instead of being trapped with you in a round pen.

There’s tons of mythunderstanding about bits. There’s one faction that will tell you a big ole fat snaffle is the only thing you should ever put in a horse’s mouth. Then someone else will tell you the hinge in a snaffle hurts the horse. You can find people who think any tongue groove is the same as a port that’s going to hit the roof of the horse’s mouth and hurt him. Most of them don’t really understand how a bit really works but everybody’s got answers.

It’s not the equipment you use but how you use it. And you always have to put safety first remembering that your primary objective in any training session is rhythm and relaxation.

About the author:

Dr. Meredith has over thirty years experience as president of the Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre and has developed it from its humble beginning of six students in 1963 to its current world class level. Because of his outstanding contributions to the horse industry and specifically to equestrian education he has received a number of distinctive recognitions. One of the most significant is an Honorary Doctorate of Equestrian Studies Degree from Salem College in 1981, the only degree of this kind in the world. Dr. Meredith has held seven AHSA judges cards and has trained top level horses and riders in the cutting and reining world.

About Meredith Manor Meredith Manor’s objective is to produce professional riders for the international horse industry. Our program’s core is riding and the ways in which it can be marketed. We are committed to a teaching and learning process that will provide our students with the critical skills necessary to enjoy life-long careers in the horse industry. We are committed to teaching these skills in such a way as to enable our students to deal with horses in all aspects of the industry in the most humane manner without the use of force or punishment. Our mission is to prove the superiority of humane methods through our graduates

© 2000 Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre. All rights reserved. Instructor and trainer Ron Meredith has refined his “horse logical” methods for communicating with equines for over 30 years as president of Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre, an ACCET accredited equestrian educational institution.

A lot of people think you train horses with equipment. This is one of the biggest MythUnderstandings out there. Try this bit, try that bit. If those don’t work, try a thinner bit or one with a longer shank. If those don’t work, tie that sucker’s head down or crank him in with draw reins.

Most people believe that you should start a horse with a really quiet bit, so-to-speak. Then the further along in the horse’s training you go, the bigger the bit you should automatically put in his mouth because it takes a bigger bit for him to understand more. People think that there’s a direct relationship between what a horse knows and what kind of bit is in his mouth. What actually happens is that the horse gets used to the bigger and bigger bits. Eventually, you need the bigger bit because the horse is used to the beating he gets with it every day.

You can either treat your horse with respect and use a bit that is only a small part of an entire corridor of aids or you can force the horse to accept its daily workout in a severe bit that is louder than your legs and seat. If you force the horse to accept a bit that shouts, you cut all the other communication lines that you could have developed using your body position and legs.

When you get the horse so worried about how much bit is going to hit him and how often, you take his mind off a total shape. And to ride a horse accurately and to the degree that will make him a winner you need to create a total shape for each stride using:

an inside leg at the girth,
an outside leg a little further back,
your weight shifted onto a specific seatbone,
an inside rein positioning the head and softening the jaw,
an outside rein following the horse’s rhythm,
your seat either maintaining the cadence of the gait or half-halting to collect the horse.

You must use a full corridor of pressures that the horse feels and understands as a specific shape. The horse will never understand or feel this shape if you don’t understand it. The optimum communication between two individuals must exclude violence and punishment and must be based on both individuals’ feelings and opinions. When you choose a bit to communicate with the horse, your first choice should be one that can never speak louder than your seat and legs.

When someone is trying to communicate primarily with a loud bit, the horse’s primary effort will be to escape the bridle. And when a horse escapes the bridle the rider often tries to tie his head in position with some device so that he can’t get away from the pressure or ruin the leverage. When the bit is louder than the rider’s seat and legs the horse will never even feel the seat or legs. He will only feel the squeeze in his mouth. Whenever you see a horse fighting the bit, he has lost all feeling for the rest of the aids. It is just like getting your finger slammed in a car door.

Gadgets such as tie downs, chambons, draw reins and head sets are only substitutes for the correct use of seat, leg, and rein aids as a corridor of pressures that shape the horse. These training gadgets are molds, not aids. They force the horse’s body into an evasion rather than showing him the correct shape. They are “breaking” devices, not training devices. Breaking is telling the horse what NOT TO DO; training is telling what TO DO. Control does not come from forcing the horse to assume a shape with gadgets. True control over a horse’s gymnastic abilities comes from developing the driving muscles to drive and the carrying muscles to carry.

When you drive hard enough from the back, the front comes off the ground. That is call “rebalancing.” You can’t get collection or rebalancing using tricks. So many people think that technology is having a trick for each thing rather than having a methodical, logical, systematic, gymnastic conditioning program. You only need tricks and gadgets if your skill is limited.

A lot of people believe they are demonstrating riding skill when their horse will tolerate severe equipment. When you ride with a full corridor of aids, you will never need a big bit or any gadgets to put the horse’s head in a position. However, a bigger bit can be used effectively in some situations. For example, if the horse has been carried through his training with a rider who has used the full corridor of aids and the horse understands the rider’s body language and positions, the bigger bit can be introduced and used for upper level games so that all the rider has to do is whisper with the reins. But even an advanced horse can be ridden effectively with a snaffle if it is ridden on a full corridor of aids.

Horses are so sensitive that they can feel a fly land on their skin. They can feel and understand a mild bit if the rider knows how to use it. But you can’t train in shouts and show in whispers. When you put a bit in the horse’s mouth that multiplies your pressures you lose your corridor of aids. The bit becomes louder than your seat and legs and you lose all effectiveness. All attention is on those fingers slammed in the car door.

You don’t train horses with equipment. You train them by developing a communication system that uses a full corridor of aids. You introduce each new concept in a horse logical way in the smallest, tiniest bites you can reduce it to. You introduce it so it is just one step away from something else you and the horse already successfully communicate about. Remember that rhythm, relaxation and repetition are the cornerstones of good training.

About the author:

Dr. Meredith has over thirty years experience as president of the Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre and has developed it from its humble beginning of six students in 1963 to its current world class level. Because of his outstanding contributions to the horse industry and specifically to equestrian education he has received a number of distinctive recognitions. One of the most significant is an Honorary Doctorate of Equestrian Studies Degree from Salem College in 1981, the only degree of this kind in the world. Dr. Meredith has held seven AHSA judges cards and has trained top level horses and riders in the cutting and reining world.

About Meredith Manor Meredith Manor’s objective is to produce professional riders for the international horse industry. Our program’s core is riding and the ways in which it can be marketed. We are committed to a teaching and learning process that will provide our students with the critical skills necessary to enjoy life-long careers in the horse industry. We are committed to teaching these skills in such a way as to enable our students to deal with horses in all aspects of the industry in the most humane manner without the use of force or punishment. Our mission is to prove the superiority of humane methods through our graduates

© 2000 Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre. All rights reserved. Instructor and trainer Ron Meredith has refined his “horse logical” methods for communicating with equines for over 30 years as president of Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre, an ACCET accredited equestrian educational institution.

Rt. 1 Box 66
Waverly, WV 26184
(800)679-2603

It is very important to care for your leather items from the first day you buy them. The most important reason to keep good care of your leather items is safety. If you do not care for your leather equipment well enough, it may crack or peel, or fall apart at the seams while you are riding or using it.

Another good reason to clean your equipment often is, in the event of an accidental drenching, or accidental mold-growing, how well you cared for your tack in the past will determine how well it will bounce back.

Leather that isn’t taken care of will lose it’s natural oils. It may even crack and peel with use, or as it dries after cleaning or revival. In addition, the stitching is likely to rot, resulting in equipment that falls apart while you’re using it.

Cleaning and Protecting your Leather:
Each time you use your leather equipment, wipe it down with a soft cloth when you are done. This will remove any dirt or dust accumulated during it’s use, which will decrease the possibility of mold growth and rotting.

Once per week or so, do a thorough cleaning of all your leather items. Start by applying saddle soap. Use a sponge to rub the saddle soap into the leather well. Then, use a damp wash cloth to wipe off the excess saddle soap from the leather. Use another sponge or wash cloth to immediately rub into the leather a good quality leather oil to help preserve the leather’s natural oils.

Always store your leather items in a dry, non-humid area to prevent mold and mildew growth. When possible, use a saddle cover or bridle bag to keep your clean leather items in, so that dust and dirt cannot settle on them and grow mold. If you do not have a saddle cover or bridle bag, or cannot afford them, you can make them yourself fairly easily. Use an old sheet or pillowcase for a bridle bag. Just place the pillowcase over your bridles/halters the same way you would with a pillow. Then, hang it on your bridle rack. To cover your saddle, just drape a clean sheet, pillowcase, or saddle pad over your saddle when it is not in use.

Reviving Soaked or Moldy Leather:

So, what do you do in the event of an accidental drenching or mold growing? The very first thing, is to bring the leather indoors and into an area that is dry and non-humid. Then, use a damp cloth to wipe away any mold or excess water from the leather. When wiping away mold, be sure to rinse the cloth often so you do not spread any bacteria from one area of the leather to another.

Then, use an extra amount of saddle soap while you scrub the leather with a sponge. There should be enough saddle soap that it gets all sudsed-up or “frothy”. Rub the saddle soap into the leather very well. Then, use a clean, damp cloth to remove excess saddle soap from the leather. Finally, apply a good coat of quality leather oil to preserve the natural oils in the leather.

“Editors’ Note” — For super deals on all leather care
products check out the www.TodaysHorse.com selection of Leather Care Supplies if you haven’t purchased from www.TodaysHorse.com
before, you will receive a 10% first time buyer’s discount.

About the author:

Cheryl’s goal is to educate horse owners on how to develop a trusting and respectful partnership with their horses. The training methods she uses and teaches are ones that promote a horse’s confidence and willingness to please.

As the President of Equusite.com (The Ultimate Horse Resource), Cheryl teaches her methods of horsemanship online in a simple step-by-step fashion to ensure that horsemen and women of all ages and disciplines are able to understand and use her methods easily.

For more information, see Cheryl’ bio page or contact her:

Cheryl McNamee-Sutor
President, Equusite.com
cheryl@equusite.com
(630) 267-9397

The Color of Good Hay:

Dark Green – This is the color of well-grown alfalfa.

Light-to-Medium Green – The color of well-stored grass hay. The hay was carefully harvested and has a good amount of the nutrients needed.

Bright Lime Green – This usually denotes alfalfa hay that has been treated with propionic acid (a preservative), which will not harm a horse.

The Appearance of Good Hay:

Texture – Stems are shorter and thinner. The stems are easy to bend and are not stiff or brittle.

Stems & Leaves – Hays with a higher amount of leaves are more nutritious than hay which is mostly stems.

Weight – The bale should be light and easy to lift. If it is heavy, it may indicate that it is moldy or that rocks or dirt have been baled into it.

The Color of Bad Hay:

Light/Medium Brown – When the hay has a tint of brown, it contained too much moisture when baled and stored. Brown hay has a musty odor and cakes together. The bale is stiff and the strings have no elasticity.

Dark Brown or Black – The hay was exposed to rain or heavy fog and dew. This hay is very stiff and brittle, and has lost much of its nutrition.

Light Golden Yellow – The hay has been bleached by too much sun, or is aged. Usually only the outer layers become bleached. If the inside of the bale is yellow, most of the valuable nutrients have been lost.

The Appearance of Bad Hay:

Texture – The hay is stiff and brittle and the stems crack easily when bent. The bale may be heavy and/or hard to split into individual flakes.

Dirt & Mold – If the center of the bale appears matted together, and flakes are difficult to separate, it usually indicates dirt and/or mold. Avoid bales that have a gray tint and ones that are dusty when pulled apart.

Infestation – May be infested by rodents, blister beetles or other animals and insects. Always check every bale for this before feeding it to your horse. Discard any bales that you find animal parts in, no matter how small a part it is. Dead animal parts can carry serious diseases that are fatal to horses.

Weeds – If the hay contains a large amount of weeds and/or un-identifiable plants, do not buy it. Weeds may make hay less palatable, and may contain irritating contents such as burrs and thistles. The nutritional content of this type of hay is extremely hard to diagnose.

Other Important Points:

Inspecting Hay – Before purchasing hay from anyone, be sure to inspect a few bales. Buy a couple bales, cut them open and inspect them thoroughly. Check for mold, moisture, dirt, animal parts, insects, color, weeds, texture…and all of the above.

Consistency – Find a reliable dealer in your area that will supply you with hay year-round from the same fields. This will help decrease the liklihood of sickness or colic in horses that are sensitive to feed-switching. It will also help ensure that the nutrition you are giving your horse remains consistent as to not upset his sensitive digestive tract. Problems may arise if you regularly switch hay types, hay fields, and hay quality. Hiding

Bad Bales – Some hay dealers will pull a trick on many customers by hiding the bad bales in the middle of the load, where it is almost impossible to inspect them. They will sometimes put the best-looking bales (the ones you are most likely to inspect) on the outside. To avoid getting stuck with a load of hay like this, be sure to get the dealer’s name, address and phone number, and inform him that you expect a refund or replacement for any bale of less quality than the ones you have inspected.

First-cut hay – When buying first-cut hay (hay that is the first cut of the year for that field), be sure to check for exessive moisture and weeds. First-cut hay can be the most nutritious if cut and cured properly, however, if it is not cut and cured properly it is likely to have excessive moisture and mold due to spring showers.

About the author:

Cheryl’s goal is to educate horse owners on how to develop a trusting and respectful partnership with their horses. The training methods she uses and teaches are ones that promote a horse’s confidence and willingness to please.

As the President of Equusite.com (The Ultimate Horse Resource), Cheryl teaches her methods of horsemanship online in a simple step-by-step fashion to ensure that horsemen and women of all ages and disciplines are able to understand and use her methods easily.

For more information, see Cheryl’ bio page or contact her:

Cheryl McNamee-Sutor
President, Equusite.com
cheryl@equusite.com
(630) 267-9397

As a trainer and clinician I am always being asked a variety of horse-related questions. I think the single most common one asked, however, is “what kind of bit should I use on my horse?”

In my situation, if I need to do any training on the horse whatsoever, I use a simple full-cheek snaffle bit. If the horse is well-trained and responsive, he stops, backs, and neck reins all on a light cue, then I use a curb or grazing bit. These are the only types of bits that I use on a regular basis, and are the only ones that I feel comfortable recommending.

There is one bit that I never recommend, however, and in fact do my best to try to talk people out of using, particularly if they are experiencing problems with their horses – problems such as unresponsiveness while stopping, backing, or turning, or even more severe problems like head tossing, shaking their heads, or rearing. The bit that I am talking about, and which is often the source of such problems, is the Tom Thumb snaffle.

Shown from left to right are a full cheek snaffle bit, the Tom Thumb bit, and a grazing type curb bit with a leather curb strap.

Transition Bit
The Tom Thumb snaffle was originally designed as a transition bit that was to be used in Western training. When a green horse was far enough along that perhaps a training snaffle was no longer necessary, but not far enough along to be moved into a curb bit, the Tom Thumb would be used. This would be great, if in fact, it made the transition simple and easy. Unfortunately, it doesn’t. The truth of the matter is that, due to its design, it could possibly be considered one of the worst bits that somebody could use at a highly critical time in a young horse’s training.

The Tom Thumb is commonly termed a snaffle bit because its mouthpiece is broken, or hinged, which is a trademark common to the true snaffle bits. That is where the similarities end. On a true snaffle bit, the reins are attached to a relatively small, swiveling ring which could be considered a working part of the mouthpiece itself. When the rein is pulled, as you would do when asking the horse to turn, the ring that the rein is attached to moves completely away from the horse’s mouth. The mouthpiece itself slides in the same direction, which causes the ring on the opposite side of the horse’s mouth to apply pressure on that side. Because the horse is taught to go away from pressure, it then makes sense that if you are pulling to the left, and thre pressure from the bit is on the right side of his mouth, he will naturally turn his head to the left. This is the simple principle that is commonly referred to as direct reining, or “plow reining”. It is also a principle that is almost impossible to perform properly with the Tom Thumb, due to its design.

SHANKS PROHIBIT DIRECT REINING
Unlike a true snaffle bit, the Tom Thumb has shanks similar to the ones found on a solid curb bit. It is to the bottom of these shanks that the reins are attached. The headstall is attached to the top of the shank, as is some type of curb strap which fits around the bottom of the horse’s jaw, in the chin area. These shanks swivel and are attached to the bit’s mouthpiece.

It is that one flaw in the bit’s design that renders it almost totally useless when it comes to any kind of training which involves direct reining. Again, using direct reining in a snaffle bit, the horse is taught to move away from pressure. To turn to the right, the pressure is on the left side of the horse’s mouth. To turn to the left, the pressure is on the right. There should be no other pressure being applied by the bit that could cause the horse to become confused.

Unfortunately, confusion is precisely what happens to a horse when the Tom Thumb is used. Because of its shanks, any attempt at direct reining results in pressure on several different areas around the horse’s mouth. For instance, if you are aking the horse to turn to the left, you will be pulling on the left rein, with the idea that the pressure from the bit will be on the right side of the horse’s mouth, thereby turning the horse left. However, because the rein is attached to the bottom of a swiveling shank, pulling on the rein results in the shank turning and tipping into the left side of the horse’s face. When the shank tips, it also shifts the mouthpiece, which, in turn, puts pressure on the right side of the horse’s mouth by pulling the right side of the bit into it. You now have pressure on both sides of the horse’s mouth, as well as a shifting of the mouthpiece inside the mouth.

If this wasn’t bad enough, tipping the shank also results in the tightening up of the curb strap that is under the horse’s chin. Suddenly, the simple act of asking the horse to turn to the left is no longer a simple act. The bit is applying so much pressure in so many places, that the horse has no clue as to what you were asking for in the first place.

He then tries to tell you that he doesn’t understand what you want by twisting his neck and shaking his head. Of course, we look at this as him being belligerent and not wanting to do what he was told. So, we simply apply more pressure to the rein which resluts in an even bigger fight on his part.

Eventually, the horse does finally turn to the left – but only as a last resort. Before he does, he will first try several different options. Among these will be: 1) turning to the right, because the left shank tipping into the side of his face is forcing him that way; 2) lifting his head as high as he can get it; 3) dropping his head as low as he can get it; 4) backing up. Rearing is also an option which sometimes happens as well.

The rider is beginning to pick up the left rein in this photo.

Even though there is still slack in the rein, you can see the left shank of the bit is beginning to put downward pressure on the headstall (which transfers to pressure over the poll of the horse). The left shank is also beginning to pivot on the hinge in the bit, indenting the horses face just below the cheek teeth. The curb strap is already fairly tight on the left side, even with this slight pressure on the rein. The mouthpiece is beginning to create a “V” inside the horse’s mouth as the joint in the center of the bit begins to collapse.

This shows a horse’s typical response to a simple request to back up when using the Tom Thumb bit.

The left shank of the bit has turned into the horse’s face, and the curb strap has tightened. The horse is opening his mouth in confusion, and in an attempt to eliminate the pressure.

CONFUSION IN STOPPING AND NECK REINING
Asking the horse to stop or back up, using a Tom Thumb, often results in much the same behavior. The reson for this is, again, the bit’s design. Pulling back on the reins causes the hinged mouthpiece of the bit to collapse and jut foreward and then downward inside the horse’s mouth, putting pressure on the horse’s tongue. At the same time, the bottoms of the shanks (where the reins are attached) tip backward, causing the top of the shanks to tip forward. This, in turn, causes the curb strap to tighten under the horse’s chin. Again, pressure is being applied in several different areas and this results in total confusion for the horse.

Neck reining with the Tom Thumb can also result in confusion on the horse’s part. This is because the idea behind neck reining is to be able to turn the horse by applying light pressure on his neck from the rein. To turn to the right, the rein is laid on the left side of the horse’s neck. To turn to the left, the rein is on the right side of his neck. When done properly, there should be no movement or involvement whatsoever on the part of the bit. The solid curb bit, because of its design, lends itself very well to the act of neck reining. When laying the rein on the horse’s neck to turn him, even if slightly heavy pressure is being applied, the curb bit usually will not move in the horse’s mouth. This helps to eliminate the possibility of mixed signals which could confuse the horse.

However, because the Tom Thumb has so many moving parts, even the lightest pressure during neck reining with it often results in the shifting of the bit. Again, the shanks tip and turn causing the curb strap to tighten, the mouthpiece to collapse and the horse to become confused. The horse usually responds by raising his head and tipping it to the outside, or in the opposite direction that you want him to turn. Our response is usually to grab the reins with both hands and direct rein the horse back in the direction we want him to go. Of course this begins the series of problems that I mentioned earlier, head shaking, head tossing, and almost total unresponsiveness to anything we ask the horse to do.

POSSIBLE CAUSES OF PROBLEM BEHAVIOR
In just about every case, when I’ve been asked to help someone overcome an unresponsiveness problem in their horse, the problem has usually stemmed from the use of a Tom Thumb snaffle, or some other type of long-shanked snaffle bit. However, that is not always the only cause of the problem. Very often the use of one of these bits is coupled with the person’s inexperience in working with problem horses in general, and is made worse by their inabiliity to recognize that a problem even exists. Many times they dismiss the head tossing, and lack of responsiveness that accompanies the use of one of these bits as the horse being grumpy or belligerent. Therefore, any time the horse begins to “act up” they simply get a little move heavy-handed with him, forcing him to do what is wanted, instead of looking for what has caused the problem to begin with. Usually, this only serves to intensify the problem.

This is a full cheek snaffle bit. The rider is beginning to pick up the left rein.

The bit is swivelling out and away from the horse’s face, while the mouthpiece remains stationary in the horse’s mouth.

This shows the same situation as above, from the right side.

The full cheek bit has slid very slightly through the horse’s mouth (to the left), and the full cheek portion of the bit is beginning to lay along the horse’s face on the right side, giving a clear signal asking the horse to move his head away from the pressure on the right side of his face by moving his head to the left.

It is not meant to imply that the use of one of these bits is the only cause of unresponsive behavior in horses, or that the Tom Thumb is the only type of bit that will cause it. After all, any kind of bit in the hands of a unknowing or uncaring rider can easily be transformed into a weapon. What is true is that this particular style of bit has been the cause of more problem behavior than any other I have seen and is definitely not one I would recommend using – especially for the inexperienced horse person.

If you are currently using a Tom Thumb snaffle or any other type of similar bit and you are happy with the way your horse is responding, then by all means, don’t switch it. If however, you are experiencing some or all of the problems I have mentioned and are currently using – or are thinking about trying – a Tom Thumb, then you may want to reconsider its use.

As with any type of problem behavior concerning horses, it is very important to know and understand what your personal limitations are in dealing with them. Someone with limited training experience should always seek help from an experienced professional. Well-meaning but unknowing friends trying to give free advice often only serve to compound the problem. It is also important to remember that, when it comes to bits, the simpler it is for the rider to use, the simpler it is for the horse to understand. A clear cue on our part makes for a clear response on the horse’s part.